The Cult of Carbinet

By June Lee

Often called the king of grapes, Cabernet Sauvignon accounts for some of the most expensive bottles in the world. While Bordeaux is the cradle of Cabernet, we give you a primer on why it excels in these other regions. 

Central Region, Chile

 

 

 

 

Chile is Cabernet country, with the grape occupying the majority of its plantings. With a wine industry that took root long before phylloxera struck Europe and was then never affected, Chile’s vineyards are free from the disease and not replanted with American rootstock like many of Europe’s vines.

Notes Jancis Robinson, “Chilean Cabernet, most of it still ungrafted, has a particularly direct, fruity flavour, and can be enjoyed when only a year or two old. Some wines have a vague whiff of milk chocolate about them, followed up by something ever so slightly salty on the palate.” Quality producers pursue a mid to long ageing style that’s as engaging as examples from the Old World with all the energy of the New World.

Napa Valley, U.S.A

 

 

 

 

Fine Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in much of California, not just Napa Valley, but it is Napa that takes the lion’s share of marketing and prestige. Famously, Napa Valley’s terroir includes morning fog and cloud cover that brings more favourable ripening conditions.

High diurnal shifts between day and night also help to maintain acidity, while the generally poor soils encourage vines to work harder to ripen grapes. Some areas also enjoy volcanic soils that add to the ‘dusty’ characteristic of its wines. Napa Valley’s modern era was established roughly 50-plus years ago, and was solidified when Californian wines trumped French First Growths in the famous Judgement of Paris, 1976, organised by wine merchant Steven Spurrier.

Tuscany, Italy

 

 

 

 

1971 heralded the commercial release of Italy’s first ‘super Tuscan’, Sassicaia, as well as the production of Tignanello, both using Bordeaux varietals that were not allowed in Chianti at the time. The DOC rules mandated the inclusion of white wine and limited the percentage of Sangiovese, resulting in a watered down wine.

The resulting revolution in the 1970s would go on to produce some of Italy’s most renowned names, as well as establish some of the bold blends using Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot alongside Sangiovese. Wine Spectator deems the 2015 and 2016 vintages “worth particular attention—they may be the most scintillating back-to-back vintages from Tuscany in the past three decades.”

Margaret River, Australia

 

 

 

 

While Shiraz dominates as Australia’s most favoured grape to plant, Cabernet Sauvignon is Margaret River’s calling card. Its wine industry, established in 1967, is often cited as ‘Australia’ answer to Bordeaux’, thanks to a maritime, Mediterranean climate that is similar to Bordeaux in a dry season.

As Virginia Wilcock from Vasse Felix explains, “We’re not under pressure to harvest our grapes early because of rain, disease and rot; all the things that winemakers are under pressure to harvest for.” While styles can vary tremendously from producer to producer, what remains constant is the fruit quality. “There was a clarity and delicacy to their red fruit flavours and an elegance in their structure which immediately set them apart,” said James Halliday, on the 2018 vintage.