The renowned Cabernet Sauvignons of Margaret River have weathered challenges and emerged with renewed vigour, carving a distinctive identity in the world of fine wines.
Margaret River, nestled in Australia, stands tall as a premier destination for fine wine enthusiasts. Recognised globally as one of the 34 biodiversity hotspots, this region, commanding a mere two percent of grape production, yields around 20 percent of Australia's premium wine. The modern wine journey of Margaret River owes its beginnings to Dr John Gladstone's pioneering paper in Agricultural Science during the 1960s, drawing parallels between its soil and that of Bordeaux.
Dr Gladstone's work spurred cardiologist Tom Cullity to establish Vasse Felix in 1967, paving the way for subsequent ventures like Moss Wood, Cape Mentelle, Cullen, Sandalford, and Leeuwin Estate by 1972. These trailblazers continue to create some of the most lauded wines available, inspiring over 200 other local producers over the past five decades.
While Leeuwin Estate put Margaret River Chardonnay on the map, earning the 'best Chardonnay in the world' accolade from Decanter magazine in 1982, the region's repertoire extends beyond, encompassing exquisite Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon blends, and notably, Cabernet Sauvignon. Recent assessments at the IWSC judging panel underscored the outstanding quality of the latter.
Cullen's longstanding presence of over 50 years in the region has given rise to the esteemed Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot blend, Diana Madeline. Despite being considered newcomers in the world of wines, many Margaret River producers planted their roots over four decades ago, qualifying as 'old vines' by UK standards. Notably, IWSC judges found a consistent thread among the sampled Cabernet Sauvignons - a supple, succulent acidity alongside remarkable fruit concentration and purity, enduring even after decades of ageing.
However, what stood out were the stylistic refinements over the past decade, particularly the pivotal shift prompted by the 2017 vintage. This year posed a challenge that reshaped the trajectory of Margaret River's Cabernet Sauvignons.
The Perfect Storm
Contrary to the usual warm and sunny climate, 2017 brought dramatic cold and wet weather to the area. Unaccustomed to such extremes, growers and winemakers faced arduous tasks in managing vines and ripening grapes. While Chardonnay remained relatively unaffected, it proved a nerve-wracking vintage for Cabernet Sauvignon, as noted by Colin Bell, Viticulturist for UMAMU.
This adversity led to the adoption of new techniques and technologies, culminating in a realisation among many that 'Cabernet Sauvignons need not be robust, masculine wines. There's a true beauty, a vulnerability,' remarked Vanessa Carson of Lenton Brae. A more ethereal style gained acceptance, focusing on picking when the perfume was at its peak, resulting in a typicity and lightness without compromise, as stated by Matthew Byrne of Evans & Tate.
If 2017 tested the mettle of producers, 2018 was the reward. Widely hailed as a 'perfect' vintage across Australia, it granted winemakers the canvas to create their finest wines yet, armed with insights garnered from the previous challenging year. Byrne expressed, 'If your wines weren't thriving in 2018, a year of unparalleled opportunity, then changes were warranted.'
This phase instilled a newfound confidence and ease among winemakers, having weathered the storm and emerged stronger.
The wines crafted were not mere replicas of European counterparts, despite Gladstone's Bordeaux comparison; they were evolving into something uniquely Australian, echoing Margaret River's distinctive terroir and seasonal nuances. The southwest of Australia boasts six seasons, and growers revisited these Aboriginal roots, attuning themselves to the vineyard's subtleties rather than rigid adherence to specific dates. In essence, they placed faith in the vineyards instead of imposing upon them. As Glenn Goodall of Xanadu aptly put it, 'Wines don't need to be made; they need to be grown.'
The outcome? Wines exuding strength and structure, yet graced with a refined softness, offering red and blue-fruited succulence. Fragrance and vibrancy abound, with juicy acidity attributed to the Houghton Clone, compelling another sip. While 2018 claimed its spot as a remarkable vintage, the finesse and tautness of the 2019s was equally impressive, the cooler years yielding elegantly poised Cabernet Sauvignons with promising endurance.
Margaret River witnesses a burgeoning interest in various varietals, from Chenin Blanc to Italian varietals like Vermentino and Nebbiolo. Goodall champions diversity as the linchpin securing Margaret River's future. However, it's the classic foundations of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon that presently elevate the region to its zenith. With investments in technology ensuring gentler processes and techniques such as hand harvesting, Margaret River strides confidently towards the future of its Cabernet Sauvignon. Sometimes, a challenging vintage paves the way for true flourishing.