Beautiful cafés are a dime a dozen, but it’s the coffee shops which take their java seriously that make all the difference. How far would you travel for the perfect cup of joe?
Everyone has an opinion of where to get their hands on the best cup of coffee, including me. Growing up in Kenya, I was very proud of the abundant, high quality (tea and) coffee plantations and AA coffee that Kenya was famous for its. Little did I appreciate at the time that neighbouring Ethiopia was also just as famous for its prized black gold beverage, if not more. Further outbound, London has evolved from its reputation of being just a tea-centric city to one that also offers quality coffee. And with Melbourne’s serious coffee craft being part of the city’s culture, popping into off-the-radar cafés while travelling to one of Australia’s most popular cities is a must.
Ethiopia – Birthplace Of Arabica
There is no disputing the fact that coffee was born in Ethiopia; coffee beans were accidentally discovered in the wild in 850 AD by an Ethiopian goat herder. Although a little off the beaten track for most travellers, Ethiopia is currently the world’s fifth largest coffee producing nation in the world, and the largest in Africa. The country’s coffee or kaffa culture and tradition is so strong, that all important family and business events are opened with a revered coffee ceremony to symbolise a strong social connection, respect and love.
Ethiopia’s pulsating capital, Addis Ababa or ‘Addis’, is a city that brings together the country’s famed handicrafts, gabis (hand-woven blankets) and bespangled materials. Addis Ababa’s largest market, Merkato is a must-do. The vibrant bazaar stocks everything from souvenirs and clothes, to fresh produce, incense and spices.
Music is an important part of Ethiopian culture, and central Piassa is brimming with traditional azmari bet (house of local singers and dancers), where you can enjoy traditional live music and join in the cultural iskista dance of the Amhara people. Unwind at Fendika Azmari Bet with a glass of tej, Ethiopian mead or honey wine. For dinner, the Habesha 2000 Restaurant offers the best kitfo, a spicy version of steak tartare (lauded by Ethiopian supermodels for its nutritional powers), and injera, a staple spongy sourdough-risen flatbread made from teff. The restaurant also puts on traditional dances for diners to enjoy while eating.
Addis is packed with cafés and traditional coffee stalls, selling jebena buna (5Br/S$0.25), the robust local version of espresso, brewed in a traditional jebena clay pot over charcoal braziers. The locals usually add a little sugar (but never milk) to a small glass of jebena buna, while a tikur macchiato is a strong, albeit milky macchiato that is very different from its Italian counterpart. Also worth trying is the local spris, a half-tea-half-coffee drink.
For the best coffee in Addis Ababa, head to Tomoca (TO. MO.CA), a family-owned café chain (and one of the city’s first) coffee roasting company established in 1953. Each of the chain’s six outlets has a different concept. After the frenetic Mercato, relax at the original Tomoca’s Coffee or the contemporary Office Bar Shop, both of which are located in the Piassa. The first Ethiopian Hotel built by Emperor Menelik II is within walking distance, as are historical landmarks, including local, Greek and Armenian Orthodox churches. History records show that the first humans came through Ethiopia from the Great Rift Valley, so visit the nearby National Museum of Ethiopia to see Lucy, the oldest and most complete hominid skeleton ever discovered. The Ethnological Museum in the Addis Ababa University offers a fuller picture of Ethiopia’s cultural and social history complete with ancient artefacts.
For a touch of art, the elegant grass house Tomoca Galleria in Sarbet houses a chic modern art gallery. Culture buffs can visit the largest Orthodox Church in the Bole neighbourhood for a mix of ancient and modern architectural splendour before popping into the cosy Tomoca Roastery in Bole Medhanealem, which is decorated with antique coffee machinery and paraphernalia. Finally, Tomoca Sefer is the best place to experience the Ethiopian urban lifestyle; the café is embellished with the same materials that the locals use to build their homes.
Melbourne – Home Of The Third Wave Coffee Culture
Closer to home, Melbourne is well-known for its coffee obsession and being a serious hotspot for artisanal brews. With its proximity to several coffee-growing areas, the focus Down Under centres on expert roasters and processing techniques. The city is particularly known for its specialty quirky cafés, most with on-site roasters. Trade the popular beachside St Kilda for the Chapel Street precinct towards Yarra Valley, a longstanding shopping hotspot. Upscale South Yarra is one of seven sections in the area, lined with exclusive boutiques, hip local designers, international brands, and top-notch bars and restaurants. A hidden gem, Abacus Bar & Kitchen, is a popular inner city sanctuary famous for the striking ficus tree sitting in the centre of the café, and serving its own coffee label, Martyr. Climbing plants fill the industrious-styled dining room walls and high ceiling, complementing the interior of concrete, timber and marble.
Away from the city, the forgotten warehouse suburb of Cremorne is a burgeoning arts, culture and food hub, a far cry from the dull industrial area it once used to be. Housing ad agencies, trendy offices and architecture firms, Cremorne is a hipster locale for skilled creatives and artists, with retro signage and street art celebrating the area’s history, and controversial murals mocking celebrities. While taking it all in, refuel at the Sloane Ranger Café, which is inspired by the picturesque, Georgian-terraced fashionable community of Chelsea. The café interiors are perfectly fitting of the surrounding industrial vibe, with polished concrete floors and walls, high ceilings and bi-fold windows and exposed pipes. Olive green and grey curtains create a soft and elegant balance. Beans from Dukes Coffee Roasters fill the matte black Arduino coffee grinders; a must-try is the sobering double espresso Black Tonic, served on the rocks with tonic water and lime.
London – Cafés With On-Site Roasters
Europe’s most vibrant third wave coffee culture can surprisingly be found in London, which enjoys an increasing appreciation for artisanal and craft coffee. The city plays host to the annual Coffee Festival and UK Coffee Week. Broadway Market in Hackney is arguably the capital’s hippest market, a popular weekend destination for an eclectic mix of merchandise, fresh produce, vintage clothes, street food and coffee shops, providing a unique kaleidoscope of tastes and sights. Watch the world go by at Climpson & Sons Café, as the flagship cafe of the namesake artisan coffee roaster offers a curated coffee menu that showcases the beans that are roasted in-house (the site is literally down the road at Climpson’s Arch).
For everything from fashionable street art to the latest street food, get off the beaten track and head to Dalston in East London. Nationally regarded as one of the most creative areas in the capital, Dalston is where new food trends and innovative social enterprises meet markets and street art. Take in the buzz of the area at Allpress Espresso Roastery & Café, and watch the coffee craft process in action. The modest espresso specialist handles everything from loading the green bean silos to hand packing their blends. Every stage of the roasting process is on show, including solar panels that power the famous Allpress’ Hot Air Roaster coffee machines that the chain is known for.